JOURNAL OF MARRAKECH . 08/01/09—15/01/09
Arrived to the airport ,expecting to be met by a taxi , sent by the Riad, but no sign of same , so changed some money for a taxi, as the Dirham is a closed currency, and tried to find a driver that knew where the Dar el Suc was.After much consulting, and bargaining , and hand waving , set of into the night, for one of the hairiest rides that I have taken . Horses, bicycles, donkeys, lorries and cars, and people, all appearing to think that they not only have right of way , but are also somehow invincible !
The driver pulled into this square , and unloaded all my gear into a
Hand cart, and announced that this old guy knew where the Riad was , and to follow him , and he vanished down this dark alley, with all my gear. What should I do but follow ? He then turned into a smaller , darker ,alley , and I started to get more than a little nervous .After about 300 metres, jumping over cats and rubbish , we came to a sign into thr Riad.
It turned out to be a lovely comfortable place of eight rooms ,set around a tiny courtyard , with a plunge pool in the middle . Very Maroccan, but nicely modern where necessary , all ensuite , with plenty of space and hot water . My only quibble would be the beds are so low , you would need a crane to get out of them !
I was recommended to a Restaurant back out in the square, so headed to the Tanjia. It turned out to be the best place that I found ,and warranted a second visit, but not cheap , about 50 euros a head , including wine , but very high standard of French and/or Moroccan food, and a beautiful setting and ambience .I was just asking for the bill, exhausted ,
When 3 belly dancers rocked in and danced up to , and onto the tables !
Naturally I needed another coffee !Quite a show !Left soon to crash .
09/01/09
Got up at 8.00 and was served a delicious , but simple breakfast , in front of a roaring fire , which was badly needed as the weather was decidedly winterish, 2/4 degrees. One of the English ladies that owned the Riad dropped in to give a helpful briefing on the surrounds, although I suspect that some of the recommendations might have been a little biased , but generally very good . So armed with a map and good boots I headed forth !
One thing I learnt very quickly was there is no alternative to walking quite long distances , if you want to see Marrakech , especially the Medina ( the old town ) where there are no cars , but you may well be terrorised by
100s of mopeds flying down these tiny alleys weaving through the people and each other , but they don’t seem to actually hit you ,just frighten the life out of you about once every 5 minutes.
The souks were disappointingly repetitious, and a bit tacky , but huge if you like that sort of thing , but really only worth a day , unless you are a serious shopper, in which case it is probably better to get a guide !
That said there is plenty to see and do around the city, many museums, and just walking and looking , with loads of stops for coffee or green tea, which is delicious.
Went to the main square,(la place Jemaa-el-Fna ) which is a great point of reference to find your way home, for a meal at the most amazing outdoor restaurant that I have seen. Maybe 200 stalls with their own tables, all set up each evening , where you can get very good , and safe meal for a fiver, just try and avoid looking at the lambs heads in various stages of dismemberment.
10/01/09
Up at 8.00, the rooms were a bit chilly , as the weather is still not great , so I headed up to the Gue’liz , (city) to get to an Atm by Petit cab,which was even more frightening than in the dark, but again nobody seems to actually get hit , but it put me right off renting a car !Having found an Atm it promptly swallowed my card , and would’t you know it’s Saturday, and can’t be retrieved until Monday morning. Luckily I had some cash I could change at a bureau . Stressed out after that I decide to go for a Hamman ,
(a bath/ massage ) to de –stress .In hind sight this is not for the shy , as you need to leave your modesty at the door. You go to a little changing room, where there is an average sized robe, and that is it! No togs allowed or supplied.From there to a beautiful stone steam bath, where you sweat (privately) as nature intended, then into the outer room came this young lady in a similar robe ,and closed the door briefly while she changed into a white sheet loosely knotted. I had understood that the massage would be by a male , but didn’t really mind . but then she proceeded in the most natural, and non erotic way to soap and wash me from head to foot , and most parts in between !
Then onto a stone bed in the outer room for a scrubbing with a rough rubber glove, and then another wash from head to foot all the time completely naked !Thank God for my Catholic upbringing!
Then into a completely dark massage room , and having just got used to one girl seeing me in my less than glorious nudity another arrives in to give me the most wonderful deep massage I have ever had , but I have only had one ever before ! When I had relaxed a bit , it was an amazing experience ,rejuvenating , but not at all sexual , and a must to do .
I could hardly walk when I came out , after a few minutes I felt like a new Man , but I suspect that may not last for long ! I may need to go back for more , and at 35 euros , how bad.
That night I suffered my first disappointment, at a recommended place called Le Marrakchi , the sister restaurant to the Tanjia , which was expensive, touristy, tasteless, and uncomfortably squashed. Enough said !
11/01/09
Checked out of the Riad Dar El Souk, and headed out towards the Atlas mountains, to the Riad Jardin D’Issil , about 13 K outside the city , in a Grande Taxi , a clapped out old Merc, The weather was still freezing cold , and now raining as well, just like home, and my choice of clothes to bring was starting to bite me , the shorts didn’t look quite so necessary,luckily for the locals!
This Riad in the country is completely different than the many in the Medina. There is a beautiful castellated building in Moroccan style and colour , for the dining room and kitchen and sitting room, with roaring log fire , and this is surrounded by about 2 hectares of gardens , within which are dotted these traditional tents , about 10 0f them , but with proper showers and heating/air conditioning, and the height of luxury , all around a 30 metre pool .
If anybody wanted to have a wedding here from April to October , you could not find a more romantic setting , and they can do up to fifty people . The sun is threatening to come out , so I must walk some more .
After a long walk among the olive plantations , and a kip , I had a very good ,simple dinner, and bed in my exotic tent , which even with the
Heater on full blast , it was freezing . December and January are not the best months to come , but this year it is hitting unusual lows .
12/01/09
Low and behold a glorious day dawns, and the views of the mountains are spectacular, there is heavy snow , so good for the ski resort, which I gather is quite good for Dec through March, and only an hour away .
But I must back to Marrakech , to try and retrieve my bank card from the Banque Not so Populare !So I will probably stay in town for the night , to try and get warm!
Turned up at the bank, and was directed to a gentleman upstairs,with a wad of cards, all swallowed in the last 2 days, who took me down to the in house machine, and no problem , but no word of apology, or explanation!
Then I hopped a cab to a Riad that I had been told about by some friends , called Riad Knisa , to see if they had space.None of the Riads look anything special from the outside, infact quite the opposite, so I knocked and was brought inside by a very charming and efficient young lady , who said she did indeed have a room and what was my budget?
Being a bit surprised , I blustered for a bit and then asked why?
She replied that the only room she had left was the Presidential suite, at 450 euros a night! This was 10 times what I had been paying so I was gob smacked . Not phased I asked if I could see it , and she agreed , but I bet she regretted that later. Any way the suite was huge, the bed was bigger than the room I had been staying in! and also seven rooms , the bed room the size of a tennis court . This was seriously 5 star , and way out of my league , but a really nice place . So I started to haggle politely that I didn’t really need all that room etc , and after a few minutes she made a call and said ,as they weren’t going to rent it that late I could have it for 100 euros for that night only. Well what could I do ?
So to cut a long story short I stayed and they treated me royally, with a drinks reception before dinner etc , where I met an American family who invited me to join them for dinner , so after dinner I asked them if they , wanted to see the suite , and we ended having a late drinking session, and generally made a right mess of the place ! Full value for the Money, nice to see how the other half live .and I got my washing done for free!!
` 13/01/09
This area is definitely the posher end of the Medina , so I shifted my stuff to a slightly ( actually a lot) more modest accommodation, right next door , so I could explore this end of things, which I have to say was a disappointment . I hadn’t been hassled once since arriving, and I hadn’t stepped out the door here , and it started immediately,prices were roughly double for everything , so lesson to be learned , the near to the modern city, the dearer! Then I got lost and when I refused to take a guide , he directed me in the opposite direction .Eventually got back to the Riad, and sunbathed on the roof terrace, for an hour or two.Heading for La Place for dinner .After a very good 5 euro dinner in La Place, I headed uptown to see if I could find a bar that might be a bit of craic , which I had found out about on he Internet ,called the Samovar. Well I found it and it was certainly different !A sea of Morrocans and empty beer bottles would best describe it .but at least a bit lively!Then back to the Riad .
14/01/09 and the last day
The sun is shining and I only have to present shop , so down to the Souk and then back to the roof top terrace for some badly needed sun and a salad , and I think I will stay in tonight , early flight in the am !
I hate to admit to a sense of relief to be going home tomorrow, purely because I will be able to relax about being ripped off. This is still the national sport here , and it is tiring continually being on your guard . But altogether a good place to come , but maybe for a shorter stay, or a dual destination.
Miles Cattell 18/01/09
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